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10/22 A Second Day in Santiago

We slept in on our second day in Santiago and enjoyed breakfast at our hotel visiting with another couple, these from California, who had just completed their Camino from Sarria to Santiago.

We returned to the Praza Obradoiro (the great square in front of the Cathedral of Santiago) a number of times during the day hoping to be present when more of our Camino friends were expected to amke their arrivals.

Unfortunately, the cathedral itself is pretty much closed for construction. They are repairing and sprucing up the great cathedral for an upcoming anniversary of Santiago, so they aren’t holding services there at all.  Their regular “Pilgrim Masses” are now held elsewhere, and we won’t get to see the great Botafumeiro, the huge incense burner, swinging through the nave of the Cathedral. Nevertheless, visitors are allowed into the Cathedral, so we did visit. We also joined the line to climb behind the altarpiece and put hands on the statue of Santiago, a traditional pilgrim ritual. The line then led down into the crypt, believed to contain the relics of the great saint.

Later in the day, we toured the Pilgrim’s Museum which provides a wonderful historical picture of the cult of Santiago and the pilgrimage that became the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. The concept of pilgrimage is explained and illustrated, while this pilgrimage is considered as one of many, as the idea of pilgrimage is universal and encouraged in many world religions. One floor is also devoted to the history of the city of Santiago and the building of its great cathedral.

Between tours and other walks around town, we would revisit the Praza Obradoiro.  Happily we were there to see Karen and Riley arrive.  Evan had forgotten that they planned to enter wearing pink tutus. Because they did, they were immediately recognizable, so we all laughed and hugged. Another of Karen’s relatives, Barbara, and a young man Josh were also there to meet and celebrate with Karen and Riley. But Karen was especially glad that we were there to appreciate this moment because of the bond created in the shared experience of the Camino. We joined them for a gin & tonic at a nearby café while they waited for their numbers to be called at the Pilgrim’s Office.  We talked about getting together later for dinner.

We also met Brian and Peri who arrived about the same time, so we planned to meet with them later for dinner.

When it came time for dinner, we had trouble coordinating the various people we had planned to join.  Karen responded that they were dining with Barbara & Josh, so we should go with our other plans.  So we ended up having dinner with Sanne, Katherina, Brian and Peri at a really wonderful restaurant.  And while we were eating, seated at a lovely round table, who do we see arrive but Karen, Riley and her folks.  They sat at a different table, but we did welcome one more chance to hug and say goodbye, and we promise d to be in touch.  It was a lovely evening.

St James - we climbed the the stairs behind the alter to put hands on the statue of Santiago.
The cathedral lit at night