Rain still predicted, but not as much, so the “Weather Gods” continue to favor us. Today it rained only a few times for a very short time each. Feel hot and sweaty, the raincoat comes off. Then the breeze picks up and the rain comes, but as soon as you put the raincoat on, it ceases and you’re hot again. It remains humid, but less so as the day goes on. At times the sun even breaks through.
Today we’re hiking southwest, across the peninsula. We climb a bit and then head down hill to cross the Finglass River, flowing rather high with the recent rain. The crossing involves large stones in the river and a rope we can hold to keep our balance. Happily, the rapid flow no longer covers the rocks. As we approach the crossing, we see a man working in the water. He wears waist-high waders as he works to remove the natural debris now building up among the rocks. He greets us, chats with us, and encourages us as we cross the river.
It seems like we’ve walked uphill for hours – just when we think we’ve reached the top, there is another hill to walk. Eventually, we head through lots of farmland walking mostly along dirt roads used by farmers – and their animals. It’s getting very muddy.
The sky clears quite a bit as we head downhill toward Inch Strand, a popular beach on the south side of the peninsula. We stop for a meal at Sammy’s Place right along Inch Beech where there are swimmers, surfers and windsurfers. That water is far too cold to suit us, but the intrepid Irish folk are enjoying it, and the magical appearance of the sun.
Our walk then takes us up the mountainside again, this time with mountains to our right and water far down to our left. But before long, we’ve lost sight of the water. Our day is still grey and humid as we trudge up a small road. A slow descent then leads us right into Annascaul. We settle in our B&B which is right on the route.
And then we’re off to the South Pole, or at least to the famous pub called South Pole Inn. In every way possible, the pub celebrates the life of Tom Crean (1877-1938), the local hero (born in Anascaul) who founded this pub after his amazing expeditions to Antarctica with Sir Robert Scott (1901-4, 1912) and with Ernest Shackleton (1914-16). The pub is decorated with pictures and artifacts relating to Tom Crean’s fascinating life.
We ate indoors safely thanks to a vaccine and mask mandate, masks worn by waiters and plexiglass between the tables. Sara’s fish & chips were great, and Evan’s chicken curry was more than he could eat. All in all, pleasant end to a day of hard work. We look forward to tomorrow with a prediction of no rain and a good bit of sun.
