We enjoyed breakfast with our fellow peregrinos and said our goodbyes to Fernanda. Sara said, “Last night at Casa Fernandez was wonderful. This is the true Camino experience, sharing a meal and laughter while getting to know our new friends at Casa Fernanda.”
So we began Day #4 on another beautiful day, walking along country roads where we see lots of vineyards, farms, forests, and villages. It’s still cool in the morning, the low 50’s, so we begin wearing layers: #1: T-shirt, #2: a long-sleeved shirt, and #3: a fleece vest for Evan and a light jacket for Sara. Our bodies warm up quickly on the walk, and even more quickly if we climb at all. The sun shone brightly today, so within an hour those outer layers were stuffed back into our daypacks. By two hours down the road, the second layer is removed, and we’re hiking in our T-shirts. The system works well.
At this point we regularly see other hikers we’ve met along the way. There’s a couple from the Netherlands, an older man with a younger woman, whom we have passed a number of times. We’re curious about their story. Is this a “May – December” match, or a Father – Daughter pilgrimage? But we think it’s rude to ask, so we keep wondering.
Before long we found ourselves on a wide, well-kept cobblestone avenue, beautifully maintained, shaded by huge trees, and paralleling the River Lima. This was our approach to the lovely town of Ponte de Lima.
Ponte de Lima: translation = The Bridge on the Lima. Named, like so many other towns, for its bridge, originally built by the Romans. In Medieval times this was the only crossing point between Braga and Santiago. We loved to see how this historical structure was maintained and revered in the city. Evan was especially pleased to see that it was NOT available for cars, pedestrians only! Modern vehicles must cross the river elsewhere.
On arrival we were seeking a place for lunch. We saw Simone, a lovely young woman from the Netherlands whom we had met at Casa Fernanda, sitting at an outdoor café, and she gladly welcomed us to join her. We visited with her for more than an hour. Later, we also saw three of the Germans we had met at the albergue.
Our accommodations for the night were just across the bridge from the center of town. Sara had originally booked a room with bunk beds. We asked if they could offer a different room, perhaps with a double bed, perhaps with twins. For an extra 10 €, they said we can have a double bed and a river view. So from our third story room, we had a gorgeous view of the bridge, the river, and the town center. Evan was thrilled not to climb up to a top bunk, and the view was priceless. What do you think?
In late afternoon, we took a stroll around the city center and then found a recommended restaurant for our evening “snack.” We enjoyed the outside patio sitting right along the main road looking out on the river and the bridge. With excellent food and wine, we lacked only company. This was soon provided by a couple from Canada who engaged us. Both were born in Portugal, but they grew up and met in Canada. They come regularly to visit family in the area and to enjoy the country of their birth.
After a lovely visit, during which Sara and I polished off a whole bottle of wine, we crossed the “Ponte de Lima” to our hotel to prepare for a rough day tomorrow – said to be the hardest of the Camino Portuguese.
