Yesterday’s dismal forecast had improved by this morning, calling for just a few hours rain and then clearing up by 10:00. After breakfast at the hotel, we set out around 8:30, just as the sun was rising. The morning was cool, misty and humid, but not raining. Evan thanked his “Weather Gods” and predicted a clear day. As the morning progressed, the clouds thinned out and the sun shone. It turned into another beautiful day.
We enjoyed our walk out of Tui this morning, past old stone buildings, and over a few more Roman bridges. At one, a huge stone stands with a carved silhouette of a Peregrino. While Sara was taking her picture, she was “photobombed” by a biker who quickly stopped in front of the stone, and then rode on.
Evan said this reminded him more of the Camino Françes. Since Porto we’ve walked mostly alone. Now we see more hikers in front of us and behind. Leon, who we met two days ago, walked yesterday in the rain. He emailed Sara about his wet walk, noting how many more pilgrims he had seen. We see more now that we’re in Spain because earning the “Compostela” in Santiago requires the hiker/biker to have traveled at least 100 kilometers into Santiago. On this Camino route, Tui is the last city that is over 100km from Santiago. Thus many peregrinos begin in Tui, just as on the Camino Frances, many start at Sarria, the last town on that route that’s more than 100 km from Santiago. Also, the year 2020 was intended to be a “Holy Year,” but that was delayed until 2021 due to the Covid restrictions. We now approach the end of 2021, and Covid restrictions have finally loosened up, so this too encourages more pilgrims.
Once out of town, we walked along streams and through gorgeous forests. Walking through one lovely forest, we thought we heard bagpipes in the distance. Walking on, it became louder. Then we turned a corner to see three bagpipers, standing aside a lovely running stream, playing their bagpipes. This was one of those magical Camino moments that really moved Sara. Several pilgrims had stopped to listen, to appreciate, and to drop some change into the buskers’ open instrument case. We are in Galicia, the northwest area of Spain, where they celebrate their Celtic heritage with bagpipes.
Our guidebooks often warn us about unclear or confusing markers. In our experience, even competing markers eventually return us to the correct path. Official alternate routes are sometimes marked as “Complementario.”
We faced such a choice as we came into Porrino. The main marker and other arrows pointed us one way while other arrows pointed to the left. But there was no “Complementario” marker here. Our guidebook warned us that the main path would lead us through an unpleasant industrial area and urged us to choose the prettier left path along the river. So we turned left and walked at least a mile or more through a lovely forest along the side of a narrow running stream. In the distance, off to our right, we saw large buildings and industry, but our path was a beautiful Riverwalk taking us right into the heart of the city. Hikers we spoke with later confirmed that the main path was tedious and ugly.
The riverwalk led us directly into the city center, just three blocks from our accommodation. After finding our hostel, we set out for lunch. A short walk and a left turn brought us into the central old town where it seemed like a community party. Musicians performed on the street, and some on a stage. Vendors along the main pedestrian area sold balloons, children’s toys, and lots of snacks. Sidewalk restaurants were nearly full. We found the Casa Mili recommended by our hostel and dined outside along the pedestrian walkway. It was an afternoon of good Italian food and great people watching. We were impressed also with how clean and nice this section of town was.
It was beautiful Sunday afternoon, and families were out in force with their children. We also saw many more pilgrims arrive, carrying their backpacks and poles. The bikers came through as well, riding precariously through the busy pedestrian street. Evan was annoyed, thinking they should have got down and walked their bikes through.
After lunch we got coffee in a bar where a Spanish football game was featured on the TV. Evan asked a man which teams were playing. His English was non-existent, but he wanted so much to communicate. He brought me outside and tried using a translator on his phone, but with little success. He got through that he was a trucker, and through the translator he said “his truck was in the slaughterhouse.” I thought that was pretty funny and his truck was in the shop, but in actuality, he was trucking pigs and it really was at the slaughterhouse. We didn’t really communicate much, but he was so sweet. He asked me to say a prayer for him when I get to Santiago, and of course I promised. He also paid for our coffee and tea at the cafe. I will remember Candido when I’m in the square in Santiago.
Today was the prettiest walk yet, as we enjoyed terrific weather, (thank you, oh weather gods) and spent most of the day following mostly easy paths through beautiful forests. We love the smell of eucalyptus and pine, the sound of the flowing stream, and the occasional bagpipe music as we walk through the forest. What a treat!
