We spent two nights in Pamplona to rest and enjoy the town. Entering the city center took us around the ancient walls and into the “Old Town” area. Since the Camino path was established back in the Middle Ages, it traverses many old towns and villages, some of which were established along the road specifically to house, feed, and aid the pilgrims.
Pamplona is a wonderful, lively city, and the Plaza’s are filled with cafes, with families, with children, and with lots of activity. We walked the route of the “Running of the Bulls” for which Pamplona is famous, from the Bull Corral, through the streets of Pamplona, to the Bull Ring itself.
Back in Roncevalles, all pilgrims were given a notice about a “pilgrim’s meeting” every evening at 5:15 at the Cathedral of Santa Maria Real in Pamplona. We attended on our second night there. After greeting the pilgrims in front of the Cathedral, they took us into a side chapel, led us in prayer, and asked each of us – and there was a full house – to say our names and where we were from. Then folks were asked to speak, if they wished, about what led them to their Camino pilgrimage. Tom & Gerry spoke, as did a few others. After that we were brought into the Cathedral itself, taken into the “Cloisters” and through a fascinating museum, now part of the Cathedral. We learned a great deal about the history of the Cathedral, of Pamplona, and of northern Spain. Our tour leader was Curtis, an American who came to live here twenty years ago. He was most informative. Someone tried to tip him at the end of the tour, but Curtis absolutely refused to accept anything. This is clearly a labor of love for Curtis, introducing visitors to the city he loves.
