Given our rainy trek yesterday and the forecast for more of the same today, we were not especially hopeful about our prospects. Most of our clothes had dried, but our shoes were still damp, and the sky was overcast and rainy. So we did not set out early. We shared a bocadillo for breakfast and didn’t leave until it was light out.
But it turned out to be a pretty good morning. When we finally set out, the rain actually stopped, but we couldn’t see much through the mist and clouds. Evan said he was sure there was a beautiful landscape there, if only we could see it. And then, rather miraculously, the lower clouds cleared, and we did see it. For an hour and a half, we had no rain and some marvelous views across the mountains of Galicia.
Then the rain started, the wind picked up, and we were grateful to have our Packa’s, the rain and cold gear we had bought for the trip. And we had some more climbing to do. As we reached the top of the second major climb of the morning, the rain and wind were brutal, but there was a bar offering shelter and food. Thank goodness! After a rest, a snack, coffee and tea, we set out again on paths high in the mountains, and out in the rain once more.
Brierley’s spiritual quote for the day actually comes from Dolly Parton – and it’s quite relevant to our day: “If you want the rainbow, you have to put up with a little rain.” And we walked.
After a while the rain let up, and we saw the path turning down toward today’s destination, Fillobal. We checked into our albergue, took a quick shower, and got some laundry started in hopes of having dry clothes for tomorrow. Then we visited the restaurant for some hot Galician Soup. While there, we saw Kathy and Chris from Australia – a couple we met last night in O’Cebreiro. We visited with them for a bit, but they were headed on to another stop. We hope to meet them again along the way.
At the restaurant, we met some other pilgrims to share our Pilgrim’s meal. This was an incredible bargain, and tonight a great meal. For one price we get “plato 1, plato 2,” and a dessert. We have choices for each plate and dessert, but tonight most of us chose the same. For plate #1, a large bowl of a delicious lentil soup. For plate #2, lasagna. And for dessert, a good sized bowl of rice pudding. All of this for only 10€ per pilgrim.
