#1: Four Nights in Delhi: 10/26 – 10-30
Arrival in India: Our flight from Paris brought us to a very early arrival in New Delhi, so we arrived at the Metropolitan Hotel & Spa around 4:00 am. Overly tired from our long flight, we had to camp out in the hotel lobby because no room was prepared for us. Perhaps an hour and a half later, another couple arrived with a similar problem. Enika & Graham were also English speakers, coming from Vancouver, Canada, so we quickly made friends and shared travel stories. They were also here for a tour of India, but not our tour. Finally, about 9:00 am, the Metropolitan found rooms for us.
Meeting Deependra: We arrived more than a day before our tour would officially begin, but our tour leader was also early and checked in with us. We had enjoyed our prior phone calls with Deependra and were glad to meet him face-to-face. Since we were a day early, Deependra arranged for a driver to take us to a few spots we would not see on our tour.
Our Day with Mr. Singh: The name Singh is common among practitioners of the Sikh Religion. We learned much more about this on our first day with Deependra. But this Mr. Singh was a very kind and attentive guide for our day.
The Gate of India, a huge sandstone arch, was built to honor the thousands of Indian Army soldiers who died fighting from 1914-1921. Today it stands at the center of the National War Memorial, a large open park that includes the National War Museum and other monuments to India’s military history.
It was a holiday, so the area was filled with student groups, most wearing their school uniforms. We were quickly surrounded by schoolgirls who were fascinated by Sara, with her bright golden hair. They were eager to practice their English and to have their pictures taken with Sara. Mr. Singh and I just looked on in amazement. As we traveled India, women, both young and old, would often ask Sara to pose for a picture with them.
Gandhi Smirti, also known as the Birla House, is a museum dedicated to the life of Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi lived here during his last days and was assassinated on the grounds on January 30, 1948. The museum today is a beautiful spot that tells the compelling story of the great Indian leader who inspired non-violent movements around the world.
Qutb Minar Complex which includes Qutab Minar, an amazing tower or minaret built originally between 1199 and 1220, to mark the start centuries of Islamic rule in India. The tower is beautifully decorated and preserved. The park surrounding the tower includes 40 other buildings, monuments and ruins.
Our first evening in Delhi: From the hotel, we ventured out with our new friends Enika & Graham to find dinner at Haldiram’s, a popular chain selling Indian snack foods with a cafeteria style restaurant. It was a very crowded cafeteria, but the food was both inexpensive and really delicious.
As we tried to find a ride back to our hotel, we had our first experience of the everyday city crowds and relentless street hawkers and beggars. Walking along the street, we were approached by men selling all sorts of toys, balloons, hats, and wallets. They don’t take “No” for an answer, as they would follow us inviting negotiation. Clearly, we were tourists and obvious targets – people with money. On this night the beggars were even more persistent. Many approached us, and some would follow after a first refusal. One insisted that he would help us find our way. We said “No, thank you,” but he followed us for probably ten minutes and even became loud and angry, yelling at us as we ignored him and walked on.
India is today the most populous country in the world. Its cities are full of people struggling to survive in desperate poverty. We don’t blame the hawkers and beggars for their attempts to survive, but our first experience of it was quite unsettling and uncomfortable.
Now our tour begins with our Tour Experience Leader (TEL) Deependra:
Bangla Sahib Sikh Temple: Our first stop on the tour allowed us to learn about the Sikh religion and to appreciate their values in action. The Temple was a huge complex built in beautiful white marble
The Sikh are committed to serving their larger community, so this Temple houses an on-site community kitchen. Every day they serve simple vegetarian meals to 30,000 people, absolutely free to anyone. We were welcomed to help out in the kitchen and then to eat our own meal with all the others. We learned more about the Sikh religion and were very impressed by their commitment and generosity.
Lodi Gardens: Later that afternoon we visited this large city park which is also home to a mosque and a couple of historic tombs dating back to the 15th century. It was a beautiful, large park, not at all crowded during our visit, where people exercised, picnicked, and enjoyed the cooler afternoon.
Humayun’s Tomb: Humayun was a late emperor of the Mughal (Islamic) rule in India. His tomb was a 16th century tribute to the ruler built in his honor by his wife. Today it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, remarkable for its own architecture and as an important inspiration for the Taj Mahal, built a century later.
Home visit with a local Muslim family: OAT tours feature events like this, inviting travelers to meet the people and learn about their culture.
After becoming independent from Brittain in 1947, India was “partitioned” into two separate states, India and Pakistan. Some ten million people were displaced during the tension and violence between Hindus and Muslims. Today’s Pakistan is mostly Muslim while Hindus dominate India. We were visiting with a young Muslim family living in Delhi.
Walking through a dirty and densely crowded part of Delhi, a ghetto where only Muslims lived, we found their small but pleasant apartment. Our hosts, Tariq, his wife and her sister, welcomed us warmly. All spoke English well and were glad to share their experiences of life for the Muslim minority in Hindu dominated India.
We also touched on another controversial issue quite common in India: arranged marriages. Tariq and his wife were happy with their marriage, arranged by their families, but Tariq’s sister-in-law insisted that she will prefer a “love marriage” when her time comes.
