You are currently viewing Israel, Part One: Our Holy Land Pilgrimage March 23-30 

Israel, Part One: Our Holy Land Pilgrimage March 23-30 

Sara and I arrived in Tel Aviv on March 21, a couple of days prior to the tour’s start.  This gave us time to find our hotel, scope out the beach at Tel Aviv, and meet some of our fellow pilgrims. Tel Aviv is quite a large, modern city: and we’re told that it’s the world’s most expensive city.   

Within walking distance, just south of Tel Aviv, however, is the very old city of Jaffa. A small place in Jaffa, Abu Hassan,  claims to have the best hummus in Israel, so a group of us walked down to Jaffa. It was a much longer walk than expected. Along the way, we ran into Peri and Brian, enjoying a few hours alone between their two tours. So we greeted and introduced each other just briefly, looking forward to meeting and beginning the tour on the morrow. Then we found our destination and loved the hummus. On the way back, Sara and I split off to explore Jaffa’s marketplace.

We were amazed at how modern the City of Tel Aviv was. It's also a relatively new city - founded in the early 1900's. The population of Tel Aviv is about 500,000.
The beaches are beautiful.
We walked along the beach for miles.
We met several of our fellow travelers sitting in the lobby of our hotel. Many were waiting for their Covid test results. Meeting on our first evening in Tel Aviv, we became travel buddies: exploring together and sharing meals together. We continue to keep in touch. I love this about travel - meeting new people and making new friends.
The famous Abu Hassan. Considered the home of the best hummus in Israel. That's about all they serve - hummus! The walk from downtown Tel Aviv was a bit longer than expected - over two miles each way. But it's worth a two mile walk for what is considered the BEST hummus. Thankfully we got there just in time to be served - we were their last customers for the day.
Our group of 9 split into two tables.
We sampled 4 types of hummus with delicious, warm pita bread. It's a small restaurant inside with about 8 tables. When we arrived it was full and we waited to be seated. It was worth the wait!
On our way back from Abu Hassan, we meandered through the alleys and streets of Jaffra.

Our tour began on the March 23, with a morning breakfast and then “All Aboard the Bus.” Our accommodations included three nights in Tiberias, at the Lake House Hotel on the Sea of Galilee, two nights in Bethlehem on the West Bank, and three nights in Jerusalem. Within the boundaries of Israel are so many historical sites of importance not only for Jews but also for Christians and Muslims.  

Our bags are loaded and it's time to board the bus to begin our Pilgrimage in the Holy Lands.
Evan and I prefer sitting in the back of the bus.

Here are some of the many sites we visited, all connected with the history of Israel, and especially with the life and ministry of Jesus.  

Caesarea: The ancient port named for Augustus Caesar was the home of Pontius Pilate. The archeological site includes his palace on the sea, an amphitheater, a hippodrome, statues and an ancient synagogue with mosaic floors.  

Mount Carmel: A monastery here marks the place where the prophet Elijah challenged the prophets of Baal.   Muhraqa Sanctuary and Monastery  sits on top of the highest peak of the Carmel mountains.

As we walk into the amphitheater at Caesarea , someone at the bottom is singing and demonstrating the acoustics of the theater. This naturally designed engineering for sound was amazing!
This is a borrowed photo of the amphitheater showing the view from the top rows. In this photo you can see that the amphitheater is set up for a performance.
King Herod chose to build his lavish palace in Caesarea on a natural promontory that juts out into the Mediterranean Sea. The king had a fresh water swimming pool carved out of the natural bedrock at the end of his palace. If you look closely you can still see mosaic floors in the palace area.
Timing is everything! Here we stand at a location overlooking Mt Carmel. As you can see (or not see) it was an overcast, foggy morning!
Wait! Wait! There is an opening in the fog and we get a glimpse of the countryside for just a few minutes before more fog moves in.
Monastery garden of the Carmelites of Muhraka

Megiddo:  Armageddon: A most important ancient city overlooking the plain where crucial battles were fought throughout ancient and modern times. Excavations have revealed 26 layers of the city including a water tunnel built by Ahab.   

What historical perspective when you stand atop the ancient mound of Megiddo, with the remnants of 26 civilizations beneath your feet. The last traceable remains at Megiddo are from about 450 BCE. However, it is believed to have been occupied almost continuously from around 6000 BCE until 500 BCE.
Megiddo was a strategic site which guarded an important trade route. One of the oldest eyewitness and recorded battles in the world was fought here: the Battle of Megiddo (15th century BCE)
Villages and towns were built near water sources. If there was not a spring at the base of the hill where they settled, then they would dig a well, a shaft, or a tunnel to reach the water source. We are going down the vertical shaft to view the water tunnels.

Nazareth: In Jesus’s childhood home, we first visited an Orthodox Church of the Annunciation. Later we visited a Roman Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation that was truly one of the most beautiful, more modern churches we’ve ever seen. I agreed with Peri that it is second only to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.  

We enter into the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation. The Orthodox Christians believe that the church sits above the spring where Archangel Gabriel appeared to Mary and informed her that she would conceive and give birth to a son who she would name Jesus.
The art and iconography on the walls and ceilings was spectacular!

Below is a short video of the beautiful interior of The Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation.

We walk to the chapel leading to the Spring where the Orthodox believe the Archangel Gabriel appears before Mary.
The chapel at the Spring and the Well.
This is the Roman Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation. The Roman Catholics believe that the Annunciation happened at Mary's home. This church is built on the site that is thought to be Mary's home.

The short video below shows a glimpse of the beautiful Roman Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation.   Throughout the Basilica are mosaics contributed by many nations.  Each mosaic bears the characteristics of the contributing nation

The Basilica has two levels. This is the upper church with beautiful mosaics from around the world.
Japanese mosaic of Madonna and Child
Mosaic from the United States
This is the lower Church level, centered around the grotto which, according to the Catholic tradition, was the home of Mary and the site of the Annunciation.
The entrance to the grotto.

Migdal: An ancient town, birthplace of Mary Magdalene, a most devoted follower of Jesus. Now there is a beautiful church and an archeological excavation along the shores of the Sea of Galilee.  We took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee, complete with a brief rainstorm.  We saw the Ancient Galilee Boat, also known as “The Jesus Boat,” and enjoyed one of Brian’s devotions in the church looking out over the Sea of Galilee.

The remains of the Midgal Synagogue, dated to the first century CE. It was the first discovered in Galilee and one of seven known from this period in Israel.
The boat as an alter.
The Church of Magdala and Magdala Center, built near the home of Mary Magdeline, honors the women of the Bible and all women of faith.
We enter the Magdala Church through this beautiful space: the Women's Atrium. It features eight pillars, seven of which represent women in the Bible who followed Jesus, while the eighth honors women of faith across all time.
For me, this was a very moving mural on the wall of the atrium. It depicts the woman who sought healing by touching the hem of Jesus’ cloak in Mark 5:25-34. Her hand stretches out between the feet of the crowd to touch the hem.
This is the full mural.
Looking out onto the Sea of Galilee. Then the cloud's broke and the sun shone through......
We stood on the banks of the Galilee mesmerized by the rainbow .
We arrive at the Noah, our boat for a ride on the Sea of Galilee. You can see the storm clouds rolling in.
After a short time of wind and rain, the storm blows over. Thankful for a warm beverage. It was chilly.
The Ancient Galilee Boat, also known as the Jesus Boat, is a fishing boat from the 1st century AD, discovered in 1986 during the time of a severe drought. Once discovered and exposed there were many challenges on how to rescue and preserve it. In order to transport the boat, it was encased in a polyurethane foam “straitjacket” to hold it together. Restoration took 11 years. (photos from the museum where the remains are on display)
The restored remains of the "Jesus Boat".

The Jordan River: At our stop along the Jordan River, Brian afforded us all the opportunity to be baptized at a site where Jesus himself may have been baptized by John the Baptist. The actual site is contested, as those across the river, in Jordan, prefer another spot. Nevertheless, more than half of our pilgrims enjoyed the chance for a new baptism with Brian as the pastor.  Everyone enjoyed this stop, and for some it was a significant spiritual sacrament.  

On the banks of the Jordan River.
According to the Christian faith, the Jordan River is considered the third most holy site in the Holy Land, just after Nativity Grotto in Bethlehem and Golgotha in Jerusalem
Many in our group chose to experience baptism with Brian on the Jordan River at the location many believe Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. To be baptized in the same place where Jesus was baptized, is a uniquely spiritual moment

Capernaum was important as the center of Jesus’s ministry. A site here marks the birthplace of St. Peter and the home of Peter’s Mother-in-law. A bible story tells how a sick man had to be lowered through the roof here to get past the crowd and ask Jesus to heal him.   

Built in 1989, Peter's Church is built directly over St Peter's house at Capernaum
A statue of Peter with the inscription "Thou art Peter and upon this rock I will build my church" Matthew 16:18
Under the church one can see the remains of Peter's house.
Capernaum synagogue

Mount Arbel: The Bible simply says that Jesus “went to the mountain” to pray.  This climb, looking down over the Sea of Galilee, may be that spot.   

Looking down from Mt Arbel on another overcast day.
"I know there is a beautiful view someplace" Which way do we go?
Rain or shine - Peri always has a smile to share with others.

Mount of the Beatitudes: Also overlooking the Sea of Galilee, this is believed to be the site of Jesus’s “Sermon on the Mount” including the Beatitudes. The site includes a beautiful church, gardens, and a retreat center.  

The Church Of The Beatitudes. This is the spot where Jesus taught his followers, including the Sermon on the Mount. There are eight sides to the church representing the eight beatitudes.
The altar inside the Church of the Beatitudes. The octagonal floor plan is more visible from the inside.
Along the path that leads to the church are verses taken from the Sermon on the Mount.

Beit Shean: This was an incredible archeological site revealing what was an entire Roman City of military and commercial importance.    

Beit She’an is one of the most extensive archaeological site in Israel, with some of the best-preserved ruins in the Middle East. This is one of the oldest cities in Israel. Later, we will climb the hill in the background for a view of the city from above.
A three-tiered theatre for performances could seat 7000 people. The natural accoustics were amazing.
A view of the city from atop the hill.
Colonnaded streets lead from the Theater through the center of the city.

Church of the Nativity: In Bethlehem we visited this church, or perhaps I should write “these churches,” since a single building houses both an Orthodox church and a Roman Catholic church.  Both were built around the grotto believed by Christians to be the birthplace of Jesus.  

This is the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. The basilica is the oldest major church in The Holy Land. Within the church is the grotto containing the birthplace of Jesus.
This is the older, Orthodox side of the Church of the Nativity.
Evan is entering the underground area of the Grotto of the Manger.
A silver 14-pointed star, embedded into the marble floor, marks the traditional site of the birth of Jesus in a grotto underneath Bethlehem's Church of the Nativity.
This marks the location recognized where Mary laid Jesus in the manager.

South to the Judean Desert. Our bus took us from Jerusalem, and Bethlehem (in the West Bank), out to the desert where we visited:  

  • Masada: This was King Herod’s mountaintop fortress high above the Dead Sea.  In the first century, Jews who escaped the Roman destruction of Jerusalem fled here and survived for three years surrounded by the Roman tenth legion. When it became clear that they would be conquered, the siege ended with mass suicide of more than 960.   
Our route to Masada took us by the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is 6,000 years old and at 700 meters below sea level is the lowest area in the world.
While driving to Masada, we passed the beautiful Dead Sea on our left and the vast desert on our right.
We ride the cable car to the top - although you can walk.
We reach Masada - king Herod’s mountaintop Palace. You can see the Dead Sea in the distance. In the first century Jews fled here during the destruction of Jerusalem. They survived for three years surrounded by the Roman Tenth Legion.
New excavation at Masada is still going on today.
The Roman Tenth Legion camped out for three years in the area below where you see the squares.The Romans won the Siege of Masada (73–74 CE) by constructing an earthen ramp leading up to the base of the peak where the Zealots had taken refuge.
  • Dead Sea: Yes, we had the chance to don our swimsuits and float (or bob) in the Dead Sea. You cannot help but float in this water, and you’re warned not to drink or to let it anywhere near your eyes.  It’s unlike any other swimming experience.  
This isn't as easy as it might look. The ground at this spot was very, very muddy. Evan sank in at one point up to his thigh. It was very hard to walk and keep balance. Floating was the easy part. The people behind us are sitting on rocks - don't want you to think we are "faking it".
  • Qumran: A colony of the Essenes, a mystic Jewish sect, lived here.  There’s another museum and archeological site, made even more important because the “Dead Sea Scrolls” were found here.  
In 1947 the first of the Dead Sea Scrolls was discovered by a Bedouin shepherd in the Qumran Caves pictured here.

Sara’s Summary: So far, our time in Israel has been fascinating and so full of discoveries and experiences that fill our souls!  We’ve walked in the footsteps of Jesus, we’ve made so many new friends, and we’ve been inspired by the words of Brian and Peri Zahnd. Our guide Mona and driver Mohammad have been wonderful! I didn’t know what to expect on this journey, but it has been spectacular. Our next post (Israel, Part Two) will cover our visit to Jerusalem.