Vienna is an amazing city, rich in history, in museums, and in music. There is always something going on here, even during this Christmas season coping with Covid viruses. We could spend a year here and still miss out on opportunities. But here’s a record of what we did enjoy in our 17 days in Vienna.
Musical Highlights:
We used to live in Nashville, TN, the American “Music City.” But now we’re in Europe, in their Music City. Vienna, Austria is associated historically with the greats of classical music: Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss and Brahms. The classical music scene is very much alive in Vienna, and we knew we had to take part. So we arrived on the 17th and found a Christmas concert to attend on the 18th. There are multiple concert, ballet, theater and opera options each day. We were fortunate to experience a number of different musical performances during our stay – limited only by budgets because there were just so many to choose from.
- 12/18: at Musikverein: Weiner Domorchester & Domchor Weihnachtskonzert: a lovely concert of classical music with an orchestra and vocalists. We especially loved the music we recognized, including some well-known Christmas Carols.
- 12/20: at the State Opera House: Mozart’s Don Giovanni. Our very first opera experience. The opera, with music by Mozart and lyrics in Italian by Lorenzo Da Ponte, would have been impossible for us without the individual screen at each seat letting us choose a translation in our own language. The music was wonderful, the voices amazing, the costumes more modern, and the setting quite flexible. It’s the story of a Don Juan who regularly uses and misuses women for his own amusement. We found the story a bit bothersome. Perhaps a lighter opera next time?
- 12/23: at Stephansdom (St. Stephans Cathedral): An Advent Concert featuring works by Bach, Handel, Schubert, & Mozart. On the evening before Christmas Eve, this was another lovely concert of classical Christmas pieces.
- 12/28: at Karlskirche (St. Charles’ Church): Vivaldi: The Four Seasons. Vivaldi’s masterpiece was our favorite among these musical performances. The setting was gorgeous, in Karlskirsche, a beautiful baroque church. The small orchestra focused mainly on strings, and the group’s leader, the first violin, was animated and most entertaining. Should I mention also that Vivaldi’s music is great?
- 01/1/2022: at The Prater: Vienna Philharmonic’s Annual New Year Concert, presented on a large, outdoor screen at a Christmas Market in the amusement park. The music was a treat, as was the glühwein and the ice cream.
Museums & Palaces:
Schloss Schönbrunn: The summer palace of the Hapsburgs sits outside the center of town, beyond “The Ring,” but still within the larger, modern city of Vienna. We visited the Christmas Markets here and toured the Imperial Residence. The grounds are also extensive and lovely. We toured the Palace but photos were not allowed.
If you’d like to see more, here is a link to a virtual tour: Schloss Schönbrunn
The Belvedere: Prince Eugene of Savoy’s palace, out near the Schönbrunn, is now a lovely Art Museum. It’s another huge palace, also with a large, beautiful grounds. We toured the Art Museum and admired the grounds.
The Hofburg Palace: When not on his summer escape at the Schönbrunn, Emperor Franz Joseph was here in Vienna. The Hofburg Palace today is a huge complex of buildings including:
- The Imperial Apartments: Features the apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph and those of Empress Elisabeth, who has come to be known as Sisi.
- The Sisi Museum: Franz Joseph’s beautiful and beloved Empress Elizabeth did not wish for the public life of an Empress. This museum focuses on her life, how she coped with her position, and how finally she was assassinated in 1898. An interesting and sad story, a bit romanticized in the movies, and perhaps in this museum as well.
- Der Prunksaal – The State Hall of the Austrian National Library is also part of the Hofburg complex. It houses 200,000 books, but nothing recent: all are from 1501 to 1850. And the State Hall is by far the most beautiful library we’ve ever seen. Beyond books, it features frescoed ceilings, Venetian globes, and gorgeous statues.
- The Spanish Riding School: This is where the Lipizzaner stallions perform. So why would there be a Spanish Riding School in Vienna Austria? Vienna was home to the Hapsburg dynasty, and Spain was once ruled by members of the Hapsburg family. The horses came originally from Spain. Performances of the Lipizzaners and their riders are housed in part of the Hofburg Palace. Performances are rather pricey, but it’s much less expensive to watch a Morning Training session that last about an hour, so that’s what we did. No photos allowed, so we can’t share much with you. But they are beautiful horses.
Kunsthistorisches Museum: This huge and absolutely gorgeous museum of art history is on the Maria-Theresa Square. We could have spent days here. There was a featured exhibition on Titian and his followers and their portrayals of women. The holdings include Ancient Egyptian and Near Eastern works as well as Medieval and Renaissance treasures. We were just as fascinated by the building itself with its beautiful colored marble columns, floors and walls; sculptures of all kinds, and frescoed ceilings.
The Mozart House: This museum, in what was once Mozart’s home, reflects on his years in Vienna. It focuses on Mozart and his relationships and history with Joseph Haydn and Ludwig von Beethoven.
A Very Cold Walking Tour: We love our walking tours that help us get a sense of a city. But the day we walked was so very cold that we thought no one else would show up. Expecting to have the guide to ourselves, we were pleasantly surprised to be two of eight, and most of the others were also Americans. Our friendly young guide entertained us with stories of Vienna and led us through alleys and around the Aldstadt. We stopped at the Fenster Coffee shop that serves through an open window and offers coffee in a chocolate-lined ice cream cone. We found the Figlmüller Wine Tavern and visited the MinoritenKirsche where Sara photographed a most beautiful nativity scene. While we thoroughly enjoyed the tour, we were so glad to return to our warm apartment. Brrrrr!!!
Shakespeare & Co. Bookstore: A small English bookstore full of used and new books for sale. Obviously THE place for English speakers in Vienna to find what they’re looking for. We love visiting bookstores, but since we avoid adding to our already full backpacks, we sometimes ask ourselves why we tease ourselves this way.
