But why not Coventry? After Liverpool we had planned to spend a quiet week in Coventry, the town well-known for the story of Lady Godiva. But when we chatted with native English folks, they wondered “Why?” Apparently, the English don’t think much of Coventry. We were told that when the English say, “we’re sending you to Coventry,” it means they want nothing more to do with you. But we already had our reservation, so we were ready to go. However, on our last morning in Liverpool, we awoke to messages from Air BnB: our reservation was cancelled due to some personal issue with the host. So, we concluded that the gods had spoken: “Don’t go to Coventry.” .
So, where to next? With help from Air BnB, we found a place to stay in York. I had visited York years ago and often told Sara how I liked it. So this was a happy change of plans, and we had a fantastic two weeks in York. It’s a city we would absolutely visit again.
York is an historic city: If there’s one thing the English do well, it’s to preserve their history. Yorkshire has been inhabited since 8000 to 7000 BC. The Romans founded their city here in 71 AD and occupied the area until 410. In Roman records, it’s named Eboracum. They built walls around their city, but only fragments of those walls survive. But York is still surrounded by nearly complete walls that date from medieval times. Major Roman leaders spent time here, including Hadrian and Constantine the Great. After the Romans left, the Angles took over, calling their city Eoforwīc, an Old English name. Next came the Danes / Vikings who conquered the city in 866 and called it Jórvík. And then, once the Danes had settled in, came the French, the Norman Conquest of 1066. William the Conqueror took over England, and “harried” those in the north who rebelled against his rule. York was soon established as a major city, and a great cathedral was built, the magnificent York Minster. So many different peoples, with their many different languages have lived here.
The Highlights of our time in York:
Walking the city walls: We really enjoyed walking along the city walls. They’re not the Roman originals, but they do date back to the Middle Ages. These are the longest town walls in all of England, surrounding the city with just a few gaps, except for the “gates,” Walmgate, Micklegate, etc.
A “Ghost Hunt” Walking Tour: One evening we walked with a most dramatic leader taking us through the town and regaling us with tales of murders, executions, and even a few ghosts. Fun and entertaining.
“The Shambles”: In past centuries, the butchers plied their trade here, hence its current name, The Shambles. It’s a dark and narrow street that still feels like you’ve gone back to medieval times. Many buildings are centuries old. The butcher’s shops, and the blood running down the street, are gone now. Today it’s mostly a tourist attraction with shops, sweets, and souvenirs.
Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey: You can still walk around the ruins of this large Benedictine Abbey, destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII when he determined to destroy the Roman Catholic churches in England.
The York Minster is the most important site in York, and the second largest cathedral in northern Europe. It’s a classic of English Gothic architecture. Built in the Middle Ages as a Roman Catholic cathedral, it became Anglican after the Pope denied Henry VIII a divorce, and Henry established his own church. Today, the Archbishop of York is second only to the Archbishop of Canterbury in the Anglican Church. There’s a stonemason’s workshop just outside the Minster, and there’s always scaffolding on some part of the building. Why? It’s an old and precious building that needs regular attention. We loved visiting and touring the Minster. During our stay, we also returned to the Minster twice to enjoy Evensong.
Lots of great pubs: We love the pubs in the UK and Ireland. We also enjoy joining a crowded pub to watch competitions. In York we watched the Women’s World Cup Football (Americans call it soccer). We saw the semi-finals where Spain beat the USA, and England beat Australia. But we weren’t here for the final in which Spain beat England. Sorry York – we were routing for you.
Pub Names are fun: Some are just what you’d expect: The York Armes, The Hole in the Wall, The Evil Eye. We enjoyed the names of English pubs, for their humor, and sometimes just weirdness. Then there are the animals, some to be expected, like The Old White Swan, while others get weird, like The Fat Badger or The Three-Legged Mare.
But then there’s The Guy Fawkes Inn named for a Catholic terrorist of the famed “Gunpowder Plot” (1605) who tried but failed to blow up the House of Lords to kill King James I and much of the government. And here’s a pub that sounds more like an insane asylum, The House of Trembling Madness. And finally (pun certainly intended), there’s the double entendre of The Last Drop Inn, which might refer to the end of your pint of Guinness or the end of life with the hangman’s noose around your neck.
Museums that keep York’s long history alive:
Cliford’s Tower is the only remaining part of York Castle. Its rich history goes back to the days of the Conqueror. It burned down in a terrible episode, the 1190 massacre of the Jews. Later it played a role in the attacks on the monasteries under Henry VIII, and again in the English Civil War.
The York Castle Museum, just across from Clifford’s Tower, is a great place to learn how people lived in York through history. We especially loved their Victorian Streetscape, and the many exhibits on how technology has changed people’s lives.
National Railway Museum: offers a huge and growing collection of railroad engines and paraphernalia in a setting well-designed for young and old to explore and enjoy.
Jorvik Viking Centre: What was York like back in 900-1000 when inhabited by the Danish Vikings. This is both a very effective museum for young and old and an important archeological site. Exhibits recreate what life was like here, around 900 AD when York was Jorvik.
We loved York, but we had to move on. We’ll still be in the UK, but in the North, they consider themselves a different country. And we’re excited about our first trip to SCOTLAND.
