12/8 Our 10 hour Bus Tour to Linderhoff and Neuschwanstein castles, and the village of Oberammergau.
On the long drive out and back, we learned a good deal about Ludwig II (ruled 1864-1886,) a Bavarian king who died mysteriously a few days after being deposed by more powerful political figures. The focus was on Ludwig since the castles, both Linderhof and Neuschwanstein were built for him. Although they’re called “castles,” they would be more accurately called palaces since they were built as homes and showcases for a noble king – they were not built in the middle ages, they were not designed to be fortresses, and they have never had to be besieged or defended. That makes them a little like the Disney Castle in Disney World. In fact Neuschwanstein looks like the Disney castle, quite possibly contributing to Walt Disney’s original inspiration. The rooms in these castles are well worth viewing, but we were not allowed to take photos in the buildings. It’s easy to search for these places online for more information and some great images.
Linderhoff: Ludwig greatly admired Louis XIV, the French Sun King, so he built the palace of Linderhof in the opulent, baroque style of Louis’s Versailles. The grounds include gardens and a large fountain, a Moroccan house, a Music Pavilion and a small Chapel. Like Versailles, it includes a Hall of Mirrors, and all rooms are decorated richly.
Oberammergau has little to do with Ludwig or his castles, but since we were in the neighborhood, we stopped for a brief, ½ hour visit to the village. This small town is famous for its tradition going back to 1634 when the town’s inhabitants began performing “The Passion Play” recounting the last days of Jesus on earth. For centuries now the Passion Play has been performed every ten years, and the whole production – all participants in the play – must live in the village. Oberammergau will mount the Passion Play again in 2020, but if you want a seat, you should plan for ahead to make your reservations.
The villages is quaint, picturesque, and quintessentially Bavarian. It’s famous also for its artwork, especially religious paintings and statues — especially wood carvings. Buildings throughout the village feature beautiful murals with scenes from the Grimm’s Fairy Tales
Neuschwanstein reflects another of Ludwig’s interests, in Medieval legend and literature. Ludwig loved medieval literature and patronized Richard Wagner. Ludwig was fascinated by the legends of Lohengrin and Sigfried, the subjects for Wagner’s great opera cycles. Nearly all rooms in the castle feature scenes from these and other Arthurian legends of Parcival, Galahad and Lancelot. The Castle is filled with images depicting such legends on nearly every wall. Again, opulent and rich, but a completely different style. Up high on the hillside, it overlooks the valley.
Back at our hotel after the long drive back to Munich, we dined simply on apples, oranges, cheese and bread, a welcome departure from the big meals of meat, dumplings and potatoes we have been eating.
