We had one week between our last day in Jordan and the start of our Turkey tour, beginning in Istanbul. Geographically, a stopover in Cyprus made sense for us. Although Cyprus is a member of the European Union, it is not part of the Schengen treaty. We visited only the Greek portion of the island. We flew into Paphos where we stayed for six days, and then traveled for an overnight in Larnaca prior to our flight to Istanbul.
Sitting so near to three continents — Europe, Asia and Africa – Cyprus is the third largest and third most populous island in the Mediterranean Sea and a very popular tourist destination. The world recognizes the Republic of Cyprus as governing the whole island, but it is actually divided. Thirty-six percent in the north and east has been occupied since 1974 by Turkey, the only country today to recognize a “Turkish Republic of Cyprus” on this portion of the island. Given this troubling history, and the continuing division and occupation, it’s easy to see why Greek Cypriots felt great sympathy for Ukrainians now threatened with Russian occupation.
So this was truly our first experience of a Greek Island in the Mediterranean. We loved it from Day One. It is beautiful, rich in history and fabulous nature, not to mention delicious wines and cuisine (did I just mention that?). Although we explored only one city, there was so much in Paphos to see and do. This week we have enjoyed beautiful sunny days. We have walked through open-air archeological sites/museums, strolled along the Mediterranean Sea, sampled and learned about delicious Cyprian wines and enjoyed great local food.
The Harbor of Paphos looks south onto the gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean. At its western end is the Paphos Castle, a military fortress designed to protect the harbor. Built originally in Byzantine times, it’s been destroyed by earthquakes and rebuilt over the years. During the Ottoman Turkish occupation, it housed a guard of 100 men and 12 cannons. Today it’s a quiet tourist attraction just a short walk from harborside restaurants.
To the east of the Harbor, all along the coastline are luxury hotels, beaches, and restaurants that look out over the beautiful Mediterranean waters. We enjoyed walking along this area, and an occasional gin & tonic while watching the swimmers and looking out to sea. Life is good.
Eating out in Paphos: We enjoyed walking the town most every day and finding great places to eat. Around the corner from our Air B&B was a highly recommended spot with a lovely courtyard. We snacked there twice, but they had just lost their cook, so the menu was pretty limited. Still, the mixed drinks were terrific, and the people were charming and welcoming. Another day we found a small spot that looked like little more than an open garage, but the sign welcomed us to lunch. Staff was just one elderly woman and her husband, who sat us at a small table in the back, open to the sky. They spoke very little English, but we managed to communicate, so they served us our beer and wine while we watched them cook on the grill. Sara enjoyed her first grilled halloumi (a local cheese) sandwich.
Kato Paphos Archeological Park: We spent hours exploring this huge area full of excavations (some ongoing) that reach back to the times of ancient Greece, Rome, and the Byzantine era. The mosaics preserved here are amazing. It includes:
- The Tombs of the Kings: Designated in 1980 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this rich collection of tombs, carved into solid rock, date back to the 4th century BCE. They’re carved out of solid rock. It is thought that this was the burial site for Paphos’ aristocrats and high officials up to the third century CE.
- Roman Villas: These extensive villas were named for the amazing mosaics they featured: House of Dionysus, House of Orpheus, House of Aion, Villa of Theseus.
- A Theater and an Odion, an Agora or Forum, an Early Christian Basilica, Medieval baths and Ottoman baths, And much more.
Tasting Cyprian Wines with Pambos:
A bus from Paphos took us away from the shore and into the mountains and valleys of the interior where we found the village of Episkopi. Our host, Pambos, picked us up at the bus stop – thank goodness, for we never would have found the way ourselves. But it was just short ride down to Pambos’s private road, to what he calls his “Private Tasting Room,” a lovely patio shaded by the orchards adjacent to a small house.
Pambos is a professional sommelier who works with local wineries and advises restaurant owners. He’s friendly and engaging, and he loves “guiding people through their tasting experiences.” Sara and I love wine tastings, so we’ve lost count of how many we’ve enjoyed, but we never learned so much as we did this day from Pambos. “I showcase only boutique wineries, not mass-produced commercial wines, so you will taste the best wines Cyprus has to offer.” We tasted five different Cyprian wines while sampling selected cheeses, fruits and crackers. And we really enjoyed the company, which included one more participant, an English gentleman who had been a school Headmaster. It was a beautiful day in a beautiful setting with lovely wines and snacks. We thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon and took a taxi for an easy return to Paphos.
To visit Pambos’s Air B&B Experience Click Here.
One evening in Larnaca: Our best travel option from Cyprus to Turkey would fly from Larnaca, a two-hour bus ride from Paphos. So the day before our flight, we rode the bus to Larnaca, arriving in the early afternoon. We were quickly lost in the now twisting streets, but soon found our hotel. From there we made our way to the beach.
We passed some lovely churches and an orthodox monastery, and then found the beach. It was gorgeous! We walked up and down the coast with the lovely beach on one side and appealing shops and restaurants on the other. It was all so attractive that we wished we had a few days to explore the town. Suffice it to say that we found a nice restaurant for dinner and spent a lovely evening in Larnaca. Before sunrise the next morning, we taxied to the airport.
We will certainly consider a return to Cyprus for a longer stay.
