From Dubrovnik, Croatia we traveled northeast for a short, two-night stay in Mostar, known especially for its famous bridge over the Neretva River. Originally built in the 16th century, during the Ottoman Empire, the Stari Most or “Old Bridge” stood for 427 years until it was destroyed in the warfare around the breakup of the former Yugoslavian republics. It was bombed on 11/9/1993 by Croat paramilitary forces. Happily the bridge, now rebuilt according to its original Ottoman construction, was re-opened in 2004.
The Stari Most is the center of the Mostar’s old town. In the summer, young men approach and hustle tourists for the larger donations to watch them jump from its height into the river below. While it was quieter during our February visit, we did watch as one diver took the plunge.
All around the old bridge are old cobblestone walks with a distinct Ottoman style: artists of all kinds selling their wares, metalworkers along “Coppersmith Street,” restaurants, stores selling fashions, both current and traditional, artist’s galleries, coffee shops and hookah bars.
Our apartment was lovely, just a block or two above the entrance to the old town and the bridge, and up a short walk. But even from our lovely balcony, we saw evidence of the conflicts this town has endured. Next door was the remains of a large, three-story building with only the walls standing. It had been a school before the fighting. On other old buildings, you can easily spot the damage done by snipers and artillery.
We realize that we’re in an area peopled by many Muslims now, as minarets rise around the city. After all, the Balkans were part of the Ottoman Empire for nearly 500 years, until WWl. We hear the Islamic “Call to Prayer” regularly and find it quite soothing and pleasant. Prior to the wars that broke up Yugoslavia, it seems that Croats (Catholics), Serbs (Orthodox Christians) and Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims) lived here together fairly comfortably. The fighting commenced in 1991 as Serb forces in control of the Yugoslavian People’s Army attacked the city. Initially, the city worked together to fight the siege, but later on there was fighting between the Bosniaks and the Croats. The old town around the bridge is now great for tourists, but beyond that you still see lots of evidence of the fighting.
Bosnian Coffee: All along the Coppersmith Street you can buy your set for making Bosnian coffee. The cafes are also glad to provide. One of the “divers” invited us to have coffee while reviewing two books full of photographs showing Mostar both before and after the fighting. The coffee is a bit too strong and often too muddy for our taste, so we decide against buying the coffee set (although we wouldn’t buy it anyway because we don’t have room to pack it) Sara loved her Turkish tea. The tower was a great setting until some others entered and the small room was inundated with cigarette smoke.
Very nice food: On our first afternoon in Mostar, we ate at Teatar, with a patio looking out on the old bridge. Evan had cevapi, and Sara had chicken. Here we saw one of the divers take the plunge. The next night, we had a great dinner at the Sadrvan Restaurant, just a few steps up from the old bridge, with a delicious variety of Bosnian food, Bosnian wine and great service.
Traveling is getting tricky: We had expected to have more options traveling to Sarajevo. There was supposed to be a train from Mostar to Sarajevo, but it was scheduled only once per day, and that one left at 5:00pm. So we decided on a bus to Sarajevo. Travel by bus and train is very inexpensive. And, the buses are pretty comfortable.
Below are some additional photos from Mostar.
