According to Rick Steves, “If you only visit one city in Bulgaria, make it Plovdiv.” Apparently, others agree, for Plovdiv was named “2019 European Capital of Culture.” The second largest city in Bulgaria, after the capital Sofia, Plovdiv is thought to be one of the oldest cities in the world. For much of its long history, Plovdiv was known by its Greek name, Philippopolis (or Philip’s city) named for Philip of Macedon, the father of Alexander the Great.
Like Sofia, Plovdiv has done a great job preserving, and in some cases reconstructing, its history. The Old Town features what they claim to be longest pedestrian walkway in Europe (a little over a mile). It is wide and beautiful, running from Tsar Simeon Garden, through the Old Town and the Kapana, and over the Maritsa River on a covered bridge lined with shops. Along the walkway, even in major parts of the city, sections of the Roman ruins are preserved, including part of the original stadium. Up the hill into the Old Town you can also find the remains of an ancient amphitheater, lovingly preserved, and still used on occasion for concerts and performances.
Unfortunately for us, we arrived in Plovdiv when the Bulgarian government wisely took serious measures to limit the impact of COVID-19 on the country. All public events were cancelled, all bars and restaurants closed for business (except some take-out and delivery business), and only grocery stores and pharmacies would remain open. At that point in time, Bulgaria was reporting its very first verified Corona virus cases, but we were pleased to see both the government and the people taking appropriate measures.
So our visit to Plovdiv was limited to daily walks around the town. We could enjoy the parks, the pedestrian walkway and the exteriors of fascinating architecture. Some people were out, but not many. Half of them wore masks, and we finally found and bought masks for ourselves. But on the streets and walkways, everyone maintained appropriate distance. At the grocery store, folks had to line up outside and await permission; they limited the number of customers at any one time. Someone stood at the door, so when two folks left the store, he/she would let another two enter. Even in the waiting line, most folks kept an appropriate distance.
It seemed as if all our plans to remain in Plovdiv, Bulgaria, and then continue traveling in Europe changed in a split second! Businesses and restaurants closed overnight. Borders were starting to closing. The opportunity for flights between countries and back to the United States were decreasing daily. However, we were mentally ready to stay in Bulgaria. How long could it be? A month or two? Then, one evening we received an email from the US Embassy in Bulgaria and everything changed ………
