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“Inside Vietnam”: Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon and the Mekong Delta : April 14-17 

After our wonderful visit to Dalat, our OAT itinerary takes us to southern Vietnam, where we’ll end our tour visiting the Mekong Delta and Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City.  It was an easy flight from Dalat, just a little more than an hour. 

During the war, Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam.  When the communists took over, they re-named it as Ho Chi Minh City, which is still its official name. Today it’s a large bustling city with modern, luxurious areas, and others where people live a poor life.  But Yo said that everyone here still calls it Saigon. So we got in the habit as well. We spent three nights in the Huong Sen Hotel Annex, a very nice hotel just a few blocks away from the National Opera Theater and the famous Continental Hotel. We were clearly in the nicer, more expensive part of town.  

The area of Ho Chi Minh city that we explored and stayed is so modern. This photo was taken from the Saigon Rooftop Bar.
A group photo at the square of the Ho Chi Minh monument.(behind us). The big building In the background is The Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Building - their City Hall.

Our Highlights of Saigon City:  

  • The War Remnants Museum in Saigon focuses primarily on how the Vietnamese experienced the French and then American war, and then the aftermath of the war. The emphasis is on revealing evidence of war crimes, such as the My Lai massacre. A most difficult and moving section focuses on the aftereffects of Agent Orange that has caused disease and deformities even through a fourth generation.  
The War Remnants Museum was an eye-opening experience and a very emotional one as well. It is a reminder that the American history we learn is not always the same historical viewpoint that is told or understood from other perspectives. Even months later as I write this, I am filled with emotion remembering the photos and descriptions of the massacres of innocent people and the long term affect of Agent Orange - even until today.
  • A stop for Coconut Coffee at Trung Nguyen Legendary Coffee shop. This was delicious, so we became fans of this iced coffee treat. Vietnam keeps teaching me more and more about coffee! 
In Vietnam this is called cà phê dừa. This was the best cold coffee drink with rich coconut flavor. The ingredients are a strong coffee, coconut cream (or coconut milk) and condensed milk for sweetness. Sometimes it's created like a slushy or the coconut cream and condensed milk can be blended and poured over the coffee. I plan to make it when I get home.
  • Visit to the Continental Hotel: Just across from the Opera Theater, the Continental was historically important. All the important diplomats stayed here, in the center of Saigon, as did the journalists. Graham Greene lived and dined here for a time, and later wrote his novel “The Quiet American.” 
The Continental Hotel (on the right of the photo) was built in the 1880s during French occupation.
  • A O Show “Vietnamese Bamboo Circus” at the National Opera Theater. As advertised, this “combines a storytelling circus, unique live music, and creative use of bamboo to form an awe-inspiring performance art.” It was a great show in a beautiful venue. We thank Yo for so warmly recommending this event.   NOTE:  The photos below are not my photos. They are from the GetYourGuide website.  We weren’t allowed to take photos during the performance. 
The significance of bamboo is important in the story telling. The tall, solid and straight bamboo tree represents the resilience and bravery of the Vietnamese people.
The A O bamboo show tells the story of the transition from the peaceful life of the countryside to the fast-paced life of modern Southern Vietnam.
The Ho Chi Minh City Opera house. Built in 1897 as part of the French colonization of Vietnam.
  • Drinks at the “Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar” atop the Hotel Caravelle. After the “Bamboo Circus” show at the Opera Theater, we joined CC for a few drinks. We enjoyed Saigon’s beautiful night skyline and the good company. 
The Continental Hotel from the Saigon Rooftop Bar.
Another view from the rooftop bar.
  • And then an unexpected shower: It was just a short walk to our hotel, but we were caught in a heavy downpour along the way. We tried to wait it out on a sidewalk under a storefront awning, but after fifteen minutes we gave up and flagged down a taxi. The driver seemed confused when we showed him our destination, and he kept pointing to the street ahead.  Nevertheless, we climbed in and he drove us straight ahead, a little more than half a block, to our hotel.  Oh well. We all need to feel stupid at some point in our lives.  
Evan, Carolyn (CC) and I walked through the pedestrian street on our way back to our hotel. Without warning, the wind began whipping through the streets. The shopkeepers quickly brought in their tables and merchandise. Within a few minutes the rain was pummeling us!
Although we didn't realize we were only a few minute "fast walk" to the hotel, the taxi was a welcome way to arrive. The rain continued for another 30 minutes after our return. Why am I the only one who looks wet?

On Daytrips beyond Saigon:  

  • To Mekong Delta Tour: After a long bus ride to the boat station, and then a motorized cruise to the province of Ben Tre, we visited a local farmer named Hung and his family.  We learned about their life on the farm, and we tasted their grapefruit and rice crackers.  From there we boarded a sampan, the traditional wooden, flat-bottomed boat to travel a canal through the delta.  Then out of the boat and onto a three wheeled Lambro (the Delta Lamborghini) for a ride to a local coconut candy shop where we learned how they make a favorite treat, coconut candy.  Follow that up with a lovely lunch at a local restaurant before we head back to Saigon.  
One of these motorized boats will be our transportation down the Mekong Delta.
Pretty comfortable space with shade from the sun.
.....and refreshments. I became quite fond of the cold, fresh coconut milk. It really is refreshing.
A moment captured on the bow of the boat.
The lovely woman has been following our larger boat for a while. This will be our next mode of transportation as the river gets more narrow.
Once we are dropped off by our boat, we walk through the jungle to the home of Mr and Mrs Hung.
Mr Hung is skillfully pealing the grapefruit.
Yes, that's the grapefruit peal on his head. The fruit was delicious and juicy.
Mr and Mrs Hung keep their grandchildren during the week. Their children work in the city and the commute is too challenging to come back and forth each day.
In this area behind their home they make rice crackers - all by hand.
We leave Mr Hung's home and follow a narrow path through the jungle to reach the spot where we board a sampan to our next stop.
Next we hop on board this 3 wheeled Lambro 550. Produced in the 1960s It was one of the major modes of public transportation, carrying up to 10 people.
This guy was part of our lunch.. He tasted much better than he looked.
Fortunately, we had help carving him up. It was so delicious and fresh!
  • To Yo’s Mushroom Farm: Yo told us how Covid had ended tourism for quite some time. One way Yo and his family helped to make ends meet was by growing mushrooms at his country home. His wife would then sell mushrooms on line to neighbors and restaurants.  Yo took us up to this area where we met Yo’s father and his wife’s sister. And we saw the “mushroom farm” that they had built.   
Yo takes us to his family's country home where they grow fruits and vegetables and have a mushroom farm.
In an area behind their home are rows and rows of these capsules. Inside the capsules or pods are the components or ingredients for mushroom to grow.
The mushrooms sprout out of the top and are harvested. Many mushrooms can grow from each of the pods. I believe these were Oyster Mushrooms.
Yo's sister showed us how to pick harvest-ready mushrooms.
She then fried them and we ate them. They were so delicious. Evan doesn't really care for mushrooms, but even he said these were delicious.
  • To the Cu Chi Tunnels: Another long bus ride took us to the village of Cu Chi, where we learned about the Cu Chi TunnelsIt’s one spot on a vast network of tunnels that spread for more than 160 miles. During the war, the Viet Cong dug thousands of miles of these tunnels to the northwest of Saigon. They lived in these tunnels and fled to them for safety when the bombs were falling. It was fascinating to see the ingenuity with which Viet Cong survived, protected themselves, and eventually achieved their goal: driving the Americans out of Vietnam.  
A map of the Cu Chi tunnels. The black lines are the tunnels, red is the area held by the north, yellow by the south, and pink held by the south during the day, and the north at night. The Blue areas were the main US base, right over some of the tunnels.
A cross section of the tunnel. Amazing underground ingenuity.
The red arrow is pointing to an opening in the mound - it's the end of a ventilation shaft. Unless you knew what to look for, these would be hard to spot.
We had the opportunity to walk through a small portion of a tunnel. It was narrow and not very high. We walked bent over . Thankfully it wasn't too long.
  • Dinner with Viet Cong: That afternoon we went to a local home where the hostess had set out a lovely meal for us. Her guests also included two members of the Viet Cong who fought against the Americans in what they call “The American War.” John Snyder, a Vietnam Veteran who later joined Vets Against the War, was on tour with us. It was very moving for us all to see John interacting with these two men, apologizing in his way for what America did to their country, and they in turn smiling and welcoming us Americans — all of us glad that the war is long gone. America now has a strong relationship with Vietnam, a relationship built upon the work of Senator John McCain, Secretary John Kerry, and President Obama.  
Having John, a Vietnam Vet, on our tour gave a new level of meaning to our experiences. There were many poignant and emotional moments on this day and on many others as John had heartfelt conversations with quite a few former Vietnamese soldiers - those who we fought with and those we fought against. The message we heard each time from the Vietnamese was "the war is in the past, we are friends now".

Our “Inside Vietnam” Farewell Dinner:  Another fine meal at another great Saigon restaurant gave us the chance to share our favorite parts of the tour and to thank our wonderful TEL, Mr. Yo for all his efforts on our behalf. We were happy that Yo brought his family to meet us, his wife, her sister, and their two sons.  It was a sweet “Thank You,” and “Goodbye” after a wonderful experience.  

  • What’s next?  While most of our fellow travelers now head back to America, “The Five” (Caroline/CC, Kevin, Brian, Sara & Evan) will fly from Ho Chi Minh City to meet our new guide, Mr. Ting in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Check out our next post to learn about our five days of adventure there.  
Our last night. We say good bye to Yo and his family. What an amazing experience this has been. We were so fortunate to have Yo as a Tour Leader to make this an experience that will stay with us forever.
Yo, we will miss your story telling, your crazy jokes and your smiling face!
Thank you, Yo!
We also say good bye to most of our tour friends. Five of us will continue on together to Cambodia.
So many incredible experiences and memories with this group!

Random photos of our group.

Brian
Kim and Tom
Carolyn (CiCi)
Nancy
Robin and Nancy
John
Kevin
Anne and Karen
Carolyn
Sara and Evan